State(s): Maine
Link: https://www.nps.gov/acad/index.htm
Days: 6
Month: August
Hotel: Acadia Hotel—Downtown
Hikes: 20 = 34.85 miles (includes bike ride)
National Park Visit Order: #15
Ice Cream: Lindt (Freeport), Salt Shop, Bar Harbor Ice Cream Boat, Jordan Pond Ice Cream and Fudge, Mount Desert Island Ice Cream, Udder Heaven (twice!), Ben and Bill’s Chocolate Emporium, Beal’s Ice Cream (Portland)
We decided to stay in Bar Harbor for a week to take our time and have some downtime to relax. This trip can be done in much less time but we found ourselves adding unplanned things to fill in some of the gaps. One thing I found interesting was in part of the park there’s a loop road that has 2 lanes going one way. When the park is busy, the right lane can be used for parking – make sure you pay attention to this while driving around the park.
Day 0
We flew in to Portland International Jetport (PWM) – bags took a long time but the car pickup was very quick. We stopped at the LL Bean Outlet in Freeport but more importantly, the nearby Lindt store had chocolate ice cream.
Next, we headed to our hotel to check in. Based on a recommendation, we walked over to Side Street Cafe for dinner. I had a blueberry margarita and a lobster roll. Colleen got veggie mac and cheese. We also shared a piece of blueberry pie. Everything was very good.
The weather was perfect; 65 and sunny so we decided to head to the the Shore side of the Bar Island Land Bridge to watch the sunset. On the way we saw the start of Bar Island Trail with the tide not too low yet. As we watched the picturesque sunset, we saw the trail start to emerge. It was wild!
Day 1
Our first full day exploring the park, we started at Beech Cliff Trail continued to Beech Cliff Loop to Canada Cliffs Trail, a 1.8 mile strenuous loop trail. There was tons of rock scrambling making it challenging but yet fun. Early on, we went to the overlook then circled back to take the path to the summit. Soon after, we made it to our first ladder. Ladder #2 seemed quite a bit taller. Not too long after ladder #2 we made it to two back to back ladders (#3 & #4). Shortly after the 4th ladder, we made it to the top. After enjoying the views for a bit, we headed to the Beech Cliff Loop. There were beautiful views at the top! On the way back to the trail intersection, we took the Canada Cliffs Trail back to Echo Lake. This section of the trail was moderate. If it recently rained, we would not recommend hiking this area because the rock gets very slick. Lots of rock scrambling but easier than the Beech Cliff Trail in the beginning of this hike. Overall there were a couple confusing parts but keep watching for the blue marks on rocks and trees. Take your time, resting the shady areas to cool off as needed.
Bass Harbor Lighthouse was next up. When getting here, first we headed to Cliff View Trail. It’s an easy gravel trail 0.1 mile out and back trail. There are around 60 steps to get down to a viewing area to see the Bass Harbor Lighthouse. There’s optional rock scrambling, of course we took part in this. Next, we headed to the Tower View Trail, another short 0.1 mile out and back trail (this one was paved), leading to the lighthouse. It also provided a nice view of the water.
Next we headed to Ship Harbor Trail, an easy 1.3 miles figure 8 trail. It had a lot of gravel in the first half. We notice nice water views and a cool wood bridge along the route. There was opportunity for us to do optional rock scrambling (of course we did). The back loop is more a challenging moderate (in difficulty) part of the hike.
After completing this hike, took a break and ate our PB and raspberry jelly sandwiches.
Then we headed to the Wonderland Trail, an easy 1.4 mile out and back. The path was a mix of gavel, dirt, and rocky with not much shade. As with most of the trails so far, there was optional rock scrambling. Once at the end there was a nice breeze. Lots of seaweed on the rocks with little shells. After a few minutes, we headed back the way we came.
Next we stopped at Salt Shop for some much needed ice cream. I didn’t get my own because they didn’t have any chocolate ice creams other than plain chocolate. We did enjoy sharing a scoop of wild blueberry and Maine black bear.
Charlotte Rhoades Butterfly Park was next on our agenda. It was a quick stop to see nicely organized flowers. There were a lot of bees (which is great for the flowers) and some butterflies. The butterflies that were there were very active.
Then we went to Carroll Homestead. There was a short 0.1 mile easy trail to the home. It was a homestead donated to the park in 1982 – it shows how life was like in the 1700s and 1800s.
Our final hike for the day was the Beech Mountain Trail, a 1.1 mile moderate loop. We started by taking the trail to the right. Most of the trail was shady, which was great because it was hot. We did some rock scrambling and made it to the fire tower. It had beautiful views and some wind to cool us off more.
We made a quick stop at Sieur de Monts Nature/Visitor Center to get a stamp and see if there were things to do there on a future day.
Our last park stop was at Thunder Hole. We arrived at 4pm, high tide was predicted for 6:05pm. We stayed for two hours hoping to hear the thundering but unfortunately it never happened. It was still cool to watch though.
After getting back to our hotel, we walked over to Pats Pizza and had Jamaican jerk pizza & lobster pizza. The Jamaican jerk pizza was very good, the lobster pizza was good.
Day 2
We started our morning doing the Cadillac Summit Road Sunrise. We got there at 4:25am (sunrise was at 5:23am) and it was slowly starting to get bright already. Around 5:38 the sun started peeking through. Despite the Canadian wildfire smoke creating a haze, it was still beautiful. We took the Cadillac Summit Loop Trail on the way back to the parking lot, a 0.4 mile easy loop. Before heading down, we went to the Cadillac Mountain Eco store for our stamp.
We then headed back to the hotel to have breakfast and take a nap.
Once we were rested, we explored Downtown Bar Harbor.
We headed to Hulls Cove Visitor Center next. We were planning to get some maps but it was very busy so we checked out the store, got our stamp and headed for Bar Harbor Lobster Pound. I had the house special lobster roll and Colleen had the lobster nachos, both of our meals were very good. This restaurant was mostly outside and mostly shaded. They also have an ice cream boat (Bar Harbor Ice Cream Boat) on their property. We shared an ice cream for two reasons, there wasn’t anything chocolate based so I wasn’t super interested and we were already full. The blueberry ice cream was good but not too flavorful.
Once back to our hotel, we walked around Bar Harbor some more. I grabbed a huge chocolate chip cookie at The Sweet Bite, of course I shared with Colleen. This was basically our dinner.
Next we headed to the Sunset Happy Hour Nature Cruise. We rode on the Acadia Explorer; it was a very cool tour. We saw some historic inns and cottages, Cadillac Mountain, yachts including one that was $70 million, many lobster boats, Porcupine Islands, a cave, lots of buoys, and even went by the Golf of Maine. There were tons of seals on Egg Rock by the lighthouse. As the sun was setting, it was a bit hazy in the distance due to the Canadian wildfires.
Finally, we were hungry so we took the opportunity to try Jordan Pond Ice Cream and Fudge. I had chocolate implosion and blueberry while Colleen had Oreo mint, chocolate peanut butter, and blueberry. It was delicious; perfect flavors, perfect texture.
Day 3
We originally wanted to ride bikes on the carriage roads and thought our hotel offered bikes. Unfortunately the bikes were getting serviced so we decided to go on a Ranger-led Bicycle Tour where bikes were provided as part of the tour. We met at Hulls Cove Visitor Center to get our bikes and start the tour. Ranger Jen lead the tour and Nick from Acadia Bike Rentals was in the rear to help the group with any bike issues and make sure no one got lost. We stopped a few times to learn about the park. One of the stops was to see Cadillac Mountain and another was to see Duck Brook Bridge – a 3 arch bridge made by local granite. We rode to an area with blueberries that had history with machines being there – we even saw a cog from the machines that were there many years ago. We tried our first Maine blueberry (by itself), yum! This bike ride was a little challenging as we haven’t biked much in a while, there were many hills, and Colleen recently had surgery but it was an awesome trip, we had lots of fun! In all we rode about 6.7 miles on this journey.
Once the tour was over, we quickly headed back to our hotel to change and eat a quick PB and J. Then it was time to walk to Bar Island. Low tide was at 1:38pm so we started walking from the shore to the island at noon. We were able to walk most of the way but some of the trail was still under water. It’s wild how you can walk across the sand/rocky bar during low tide but that same area is completely under water hours later. Once there we walked the Bar Island Trail an easy 1.9 mile out and back (includes gravel bar + trail). Once on the trail, we took a right at the fork in the road to find an (what’s left of an) old home with a view of Bar Harbor. When we were done exploring, we returned back down the same path. We saw a mouse along the outside of the trail at one point. When we got to the end we went to the right. There’s a little hidden path with a much better view of the town. There is a loop you can take through the woods to get back but it was closed at the time so people needed to head back the way they came. We were back to the shore by around 1:45pm with plenty of time to spare.
After that journey, we stopped at Mount Desert Island Ice Cream for a cool afternoon snack. I got chocolate, Colleen got strawberry; they were both good. We headed to hotel to cool off in the AC for a bit while I researched how to eat a lobster (I wanted to eat a full lobster at some point on the trip but never did before).
We then walked around town, shopping for some Acadia apparel and some other mementos. When we were done with that, we went to Stewman’s Lobster Pound for dinner. I had a side of lobster bisque and a lobster roll while Colleen had the half chicken dinner. We both liked our food.
On the way back to the hotel, we walked the Shoreline Path. It’s a quick 0.75 mile walk along the water (the shore) it’s a very easy walk that is paved the entire time, with options to walk out to rocks along the way.
As the sun continued to set, we sat on our balcony listening to a band play at the Village Green Park.
Day 4
We started our morning going next door to Cafe This Way for blueberry pancakes. They were very good (and quick)!
First we headed to Schooner Head Overlook – at one time this was a popular viewpoint but now it’s mostly blocked by trees. It’s still nice but a lot less popular.
We were going to start at Great Head but at 7:30am the parking area was already full and around a quarter mile of cars in the street. We continued on to Thunderhole to see it again with a lot less people. Even though it was 40 mins before high tide, we still didn’t hear the thundering.
Next we took Ocean Path from Thunderhole to Great Head (0.8 miles one way). The Great Head trail was 1.8 miles moderate. It starts by walking across the beach. Eventually you’ll make it to some steps at the wood line to start the loop. Once there, you’ll see lots of trees along the gravel path that eventually turns very rocky. We took this trail clockwise. It was very peaceful. At the back side of the trail we found a small parking lot for this trail (we didn’t know it had its own parking lot). You’ll pass over a foot bridge and eventually make it to rock scrambling! Toward the end we could see people lined up for Beehive in the distance. We made perfect time to hitch a bus ride to Thunderhole.
Then we headed to Gorham Mountain Trail, a 3 mile moderate hike with lots of rock scrambling. At one point you can stay on the normal trail or take the side 0.2 mile trail through Cadillac Cliffs. The distance is the same as if you stay on the main trail but Cadillac Cliffs is more fun (more challenging); we took Cadillac Cliffs. There ended up being a lot of big rocks to climb over, it was fun. At one point we could see Sand Beach. Once to the top, we spent a few minutes catching a breather and taking in the views. We each found one blueberry to eat. Finally, we headed back to Sand Beach and took the bus back to Gorham Mountain Parking area.
Next we headed to the Otter Cliffs parking lot to check out Otter Cliffs then took the Ocean Path 0.4 miles (one way) to Otter Point. Otter Point was peaceful, 2 people were painting and 2 other people were reading. When we were done, we headed back the same way we came.
Then we went to Sieur De Mounts to check out the Wild Gardens of Acadia. Here you can spend as much or as little time as you’d like. We saw some frogs! We continued on to the Jesup Path, 1.4 mile out and back trail, to the boardwalk trail where we heard birds singing, it was otherwise quiet. At the end of the boardwalk we saw a frog and turned back. On the way back we saw some blue birds, likely blue jays.
Our last trail for the day was the Compass Harbor Trail, an easy 0.8-mile path. Most of the path had pine needles and tree roots covering it. At the back side of the loop you can explore what’s left of the old Dorr estate. Overall it was a nice little hike that we turned into a loop.
We then headed back to the hotel to cool off and relax. Once we were ready, we drove to Bar Harbor Lobster Pound for another round of their delicious food. It’s rare that we go back to a restaurant again while on vacation but this place deserved an exception. This time I had the lobster dinner – a full lobster with corn, slaw, and chips. Colleen had the nachos again. We loved the food, just like the first time.
On the way back we stopped at Pirates Cove to play mini golf. I’m pretty sure Colleen kicked by butt, but we weren’t keeping score so it doesn’t count, right?
For dessert we ran across the street to the incredibly busy Udder Heaven for ice cream. I had chocolate peanut butter and mud flats in a home made waffle cone. Colleen had banana peanut butter and Maine blueberry in a home made waffle cone. Both were super good!
Day 5
There were two donut places we wanted to try. The first one was Stadium – we each had a blueberry donut and shared a blueberry lemonade. Everything was great! Their donut was slightly crispy on the outside and light/fluffy on the inside – full of blueberry flavor. Next we headed to Graffiti Donuts we shared a blueberry coffee cake donut, which was good but not as flavorful. We also shared a blueberry pie donut, which came with either whipped cream or ice cream; of course we hard the better option–ice cream. I wish we could have ice cream for breakfast everyday!
We had a tour this morning, the Rockefeller’s Bridges Tour. Our horses were Doc and Dan with our guides being Waylon and Jane. We went by a few bridges. The first one we passed under the bridge. The second one we passed over a bridge, finally, the third we stopped at and were able to get out and walk around. Generally these bridges were made from locally sourced stone but for this last one, they ran out of stone part way through, so half of the stone was from Italy. Overall this entire experience was very nice filled with lots of history. Waylon did a great job of explaining how John D. Rockefeller Jr. spent a lot of money to make the park something awesome we get to enjoy today.
After that tour it was time for lunch at Jordan Pond House. Parking was nuts. After 30ish mins of driving around we finally were able to find a spot by pleading with a worker to let us in the closed parking lot. Once in the restaurant, we each had a popover (with strawberry jam) as an appetizer. We never had a popover before and wow, they were good. For our meals, I had a lobster popover and Colleen had lobster mac and cheese. Our food was very good.
After eating all that food, it was time to walk it off. We headed to a trail right behind the restaurant – Jordan Pond Path. We started the trail going counterclockwise, it was so peaceful. The path on that side of the lake is very easy to walk. I felt the need to keep stopping to enjoy the beauty of the lake. Eventually we headed to the bubbles area at one of the junctions, taking the Bubbles Trail to Bubble Rock from Jordan Pond Path is moderate plus; there is a TON of rock scrambling. At one section we had to squeeze through an area while climbing up. We finally made it to Bubble Rock, a rock close to the edge of a cliff. Overall, it was tough but fun.
We continued on our journey and headed toward North Bubble. While we were still close to Bubble Rock, we found blueberries. As we continued, down this moderately challenging trail, there was a lot more rock scrambling but not as much as previous section. After making it to North Bubble, we headed back toward Jordan Pond Path by going south until we made it to the 100s of stairs on Bubble Divide Trail. Once back on the Jordan Pond Path, it was very rocky. Eventually that led to a long boardwalk to finish it off. All considered, we turned what is normally an easy hike into a hard 4.1 mile hike with 860 feet of ascent, but it was a lot of fun and beautiful.
Next we headed to the hotel for a little while. Once we were ready for dinner, we went to Testa’s Bar and Grill for dinner. I had lobster mac and cheese and Colleen had lobster tacos. We both liked our food. My mac and cheese had a lot of big lobster chunks.
After walking around for a while, we finished our night with Ben and Bill’s Chocolate Emporium for ice cream. I had chocolate peanut butter cookie dough & chocolate tsunami. Colleen had blueberry and mint Oreo. We were both happy with our choices, they were good.
Day 6
This day we got up early and headed over to the area most people don’t go (less than 10% of people exploring Acadia) – the Schoodic Peninsula. Many of the trails are off a loop road so they need to be done in order or you’ll have to complete the loop then go back around again.
Our first trail of the day was the Lower Harbor Trail, an easy 2.4 mile out and back trail. We parked at the Schoodic Woods Campground parking lot and walked across the road to the trailhead. This trail had a lot of tree roots on the path and birds in the trees. We passed over 6 foot bridges (each way). Generally considered easy, if your ankles or knees are bad it might be tough because of all the tree roots. Once we made it to the road, we turned around and followed it back.
Next we headed up Mountain Road (a gravel, winding road), all the way to the end. We then made a loop out of 3 trails, the Schoodic Head Trail to Alder Trail to Anvil Trail. This loop ended up being a 2.4 mile moderate hike. Roots and rocks marked the path for the first section, going mostly downhill. We spotted a cool bird trail marker along the way. After getting to the end of Schoodic Head Trail, turn left to find the the start of Alder Trail straight ahead down the road. Alder trail is mostly grassy in the beginning, then it gets rocky and eventually the tree roots come to life again. We didn’t see birds but heard several of them. At the end of this trail, turn left at the road. The next trailhead, for Anvil Trail, will be on the left a bit down the road. This last mile is the most challenging as it mostly goes uphill. After finishing this trail, we added the overlook and circled back. This added about 0.3 (there and back) miles to go to the Schoodic Head Overlook.
At this point, we were ready for a quick PB and J.
Then we headed to the Sundew Trail, and easy 1.4 miles out and back trail. We started at the Schoodic Education & Research Center back parking lot. The trail is mostly gravel trail and tree roots through the woods. There are a couple foot bridges and a short boardwalk. On the way back we went to the Sundew Overlook, adding less than 0.2 miles. It was a nice viewpoint to stop at for a few minutes but it was pretty hot as it was full sun with no shade.
Next, we headed in to the Schoodic Education and Research Institute – Rockefeller Hall/Welcome Center. This was pretty interesting to read about this history with Rockefeller and the US Navy.
On our way back to the Bar Harbor area, we stopped at Winter Harbor. It was a bit underwhelming with not much to do so we quickly left.
For linner we went to The Travelin’ Lobster. We shared a lobster panini and a lobster quesadilla. The food was good but it was odd to find that they charge for water.
On our last night, we had to get another round of Udder Heaven for more ice cream. I had smores in a homemade waffle cone and Colleen had BB 3.14 (blueberry pie). A perfect way to end our last night there.
Day 7
On our way to Portland International Jetport (PWM) to head home, we stopped in Downtown Portland. We parked at the Elm Parking Garage, then walked around.
For lunch, we walked to Butcher Burger. I had the mini McMac with a Maine Root – Root Beer. Colleen had chicken and waffles with a Maine Root – Root Beer. Everything was very good!
We walked around a little bit more around Commercial Street – there were several street vendors to check out. Before we headed to the airport, we tried Beal’s Ice Cream. We shared chocolate raspberry truffle and peanut butter cup, it was very good.
